Paris fashion leans into glamour as luxury market strains

Paris Fashion Week’s spring-summer 2027 shows turned to gold-toned spectacle, revealing silhouettes and couture-level technique as the luxury industry faces pressure, The Korea Times reported.

The shows underscored how major houses are using celebrity attention, public spectacle and intensive craft to defend luxury’s appeal as L’Oréal has overtaken LVMH as France’s most valuable listed company.

Saint Laurent opened the week’s clearest statement with an outdoor, gold-themed runway set against the Eiffel Tower, according to The Korea Times. The set included chandeliers and a glossy black runway, with Catherine Deneuve, Kate Moss, Hailey Bieber and Rami Malek among those attending.

Anja Rubik led Saint Laurent’s black finale, which The Korea Times described as a reversal of Yves Saint Laurent’s all-gold closing sequence in 1991. Charlotte Gainsbourg sang during the show, and designer Anthony Vaccarello marked 10 years at Saint Laurent without announcing a departure.

Other houses pushed distinct versions of glamour and exposure. Chloé showed broderie anglaise, lace, pearls, tassels, rainwear, fishermen’s hats and ruffled sleeves, while Stella McCartney presented tailoring, coral-like knitted forms, airbrushed dolphins on denim, sculptural hems and peplums with an ocean-conservation message voiced by David Attenborough, The Korea Times reported.

Tom Ford’s Haider Ackermann presented sharp tailoring with bare chests, fishnet, reduced swimwear and silk robes. Balmain’s Antonin Tron drew on midcentury backstage photographs, Jim Morrison and Michel Foucault’s LSD experiments in California, according to The Korea Times.

Rick Owens staged column gowns, spiked tulle, crystal-laden footwear and tulle-and-elastic body constructions at the Palais de Tokyo reflecting pool. Balenciaga, under Pierpaolo Piccioli, emphasized dense stitching, fitted waists, peplums and bias-cut jeans as couture techniques moved into everyday clothing.

Matières Fécales brought the spectacle into a public setting with a Place de la République show titled “The 99 Percent,” according to The Korea Times. Rihanna attended the show, while Jennifer Lopez was seen at Stella McCartney’s rain-soaked garden presentation.

The week’s message was less restraint than persuasion: Even as Gucci struggles, Balenciaga remains under pressure and Kering works back toward growth, Paris houses are betting that spectacle and craft can keep luxury desirable.